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Maple repotting question
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Author:  Sven [ 16 Aug 2015, 17:26 ]
Post subject:  Maple repotting question

Hi all, I'm struggling a little bit with getting my plans straight in my head for this autumn after leaf fall.

I have three maples, Japanese featherleaf, Field and Norway (?), all quite hefty stumps in root-bound pots. All need repotting, and all need trunk chops. Can I do this at the same time, or do I need to phase the work??

Also, with maples, do you completely remove all existing soil during repotting, or do you need to leave some areas of the roots and soil alone?

Finally, will all three maples take the same soil mix, I was thinking about two thirds expanded clay (Tesco) and one third organic for moisture retention? Or possibly Kaizen no.3?

Thanks - maples are new to me.

Author:  paulpash [ 16 Aug 2015, 20:55 ]
Post subject:  Re: Maple repotting question

This can't be answered without you knowing the goal(s) for the trees involved. My guess is that because you want to chop they are in the trunk building phase. If your goal is to grow out the a lower trunk section then root pruning is counter productive. If that is nearly complete and you only have the final section to grow then rootwork is appropriate as internode length will be much shorter. A pic of the trees will be useful.

Author:  Bill [ 17 Aug 2015, 00:50 ]
Post subject:  Re: Maple repotting question

yes, trunk chop on an established rootsystem will give you vigourous growth in spring but that means long internodes.
i would not use so much organics, on my maple i use about 50% tesco's 35% grit and 15% composted bark.
btw tesco's (moler) is not expanded clay, thats a different thing with different properties.

Author:  Sven [ 18 Aug 2015, 19:36 ]
Post subject:  Re: Maple repotting question

Ok, thanks, sorry I didn't post photos, a must of course. And thanks for pointing out my misunderstanding about moler.

Firstly my two stumps, Field Maple and Norway(?) Maple - these are new acquisitions, in smallish pots (~20 litre) in garden soil. I've already slip potted the Norway Maple into a larger pot (30 litre), filling up the additional space with moler. Neither are growing vigourously if at all at the moment. Next spring I would like to carry out a trunk chop, and then let grow for a few years, long internodes are fine. If I knew all was well in the pot, I wouldn't be considering reporting, as I just want max growth. Maybe I should slip put the field Maple into a larger pot as well, and just leave the roots alone for now? (Needs to be pots for portability - not the ground). Thanks.

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Next, my Japanese Maple is a different case. This I have to to repot, with greater or lesser root disturbance depending on your advice, as the existing pot is rotten through and the tree is rooted into the ground. The existing soil in the pot is rock hard soil and way overdue for changing. The branches on the tree are very long and straggly, and therefore due very heavy pruning in order to try to get some control over the shape. I can see an air layer or two coming up in later years. But for now, can I do a hard prune and a thorough report in the same 'sitting'? Do I take it back to bare roots? Short internodes are the target for this tree.

Advice appreciated. Sven

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Author:  Will [ 18 Aug 2015, 19:37 ]
Post subject:  Re: Maple repotting question

Has that last one rooted into the ground through the bottom of that barrel???

Author:  paulpash [ 18 Aug 2015, 20:53 ]
Post subject:  Re: Maple repotting question

So the first two are newly acquired, are in garden soil (just a top dressing of moler then?) and have made very little growth? They need to be healthy before being worked again so if they are going to be developed completely in their pots it's important to assess the roots when they're dormant and get it into appropriate substrate so it can gain vigour. For comparison, my 'bigfoot' field maple I have in a pot half the size you've got yours in has grown a leader over 3 feet tall this year, was chopped and has another 1ft stem take its place. The key is putting your tree into the smallest pot you can cram the root mass into and into good substrate. Once it has packed the container then pot it on - a big pot with a small root mass stays too wet. Water it every day and feed the heck out of it (I feed mine with full strength fert every 10 days and have slow release pellets in the mix). It's a shame you can't ground grow it - field maples fly in the open ground. Development time for growing trunks can be halved if this is in the ground and not in a pot.

The dissectum, if rooted in the ground, needs to be removed by gently removing the rest of the barrel and then cutting through the rootball at the base where it meets the ground. Get a sharp saw and cut through any thick roots, keeping the root ball in tact if possible. If you have a small cart and can lift it on there that'd be the ideal scenario. If not then bring your repotting kit, container and substrate and do it in situ. Acers are pretty resilient and it looks well established so some root work and branch reduction should be fairly straightforward, although dissectums aren't as strong as palmatum. If it's grafted it's probably on palmatum rootstock. I have a green dissectum that I chopped this year and it has popped back buds all over.

Author:  Sven [ 19 Aug 2015, 17:40 ]
Post subject:  Re: Maple repotting question

Ok, cool stuff, and a new word...'dissectum'... Bonus!

Thanks - I'll give it a go! There might be some more questions as I get going...!

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